Syrian delicatessen

As said before, eating is very important in Syria. When the people have finished a meal, they are already planning he next meal. They're probably dreaming about it.

I can understand why. Eating is a social event. Family an friends gathered around a big dish (mostly sitting on the ground) filled with a lot of small plates containing all kinds of vegetables, rice, yoghurt and spices.

Most meals are vegetarian. Sometimes chicken is added to the the rice or borghoul (a variety of couscous). And once in a while a barbecue is organized with as main substance meat, i.e. chicken and kebab. On very special occasions fish is grilled.

Fish is very expensive. Even when it is coming from the Euphratis, not far from Aleppo.

As a whole, the syrian kitchen is varied and healthy. They do not use butter, only olive oil.

But sometimes the dishes are very exotic, as in Syria every part of the animal is eaten.

Last night, I had the opportunity to eat a very special dish.

I went to sleep at about 11 o'clock at night because was tired and suffering from a cold. At 02:30 in the morning I was woken up, telling me that a very good friend was visiting and that they had prepared an extraordinary dinner. I had to attend.

So, half awake, I pu ton a djellabah and went and greeted the friend. Sat down and waited for the delicatessen to be served.

It was 1 pan filled with what seemed to be liver and something else. I accepted 2 spoonfulls and ate very slowly, wrapping each piece of unidentified food with a lot of bread. It wasn't tasting bad, but some pieces were really tough.

After I had finished, I asked what it was. It were sheep testicles and penises...

I realize today that I probably would not have eaten it, if I had known beforehand.

Anyway, I did eat and have been telling about my adventure since this morning. And here is the story again...

Aleppine Arabic

It is nearly a month that I'm staying in Aleppo and every day I feel more and more at home.

I'm learning to know more people each day and am getting better in Aleppine Arabic.

This is the dialect that the people are speaking here and I decided it is better to learn to communicate with the local people than putting my efforts in Standard Arabic which is not understood by a lot of Aleppines and certainly not spoken.

The Aleppine dialect is a "short" language by which I mean that it is spoken quickly skipping a lot of letters.

Even though I cannot translate exactly what they are saying, I'm beginning to understand what the conversation is about when they are speaking among each other. Especially when it is a story that I know.

In the Arabic culture the verbal communication is very important. People tend to visit each other a lot and the main purpose is to tell each other the latest news.

Because I am spending a lot of time with several members of one particular family - a huge family - I'm learning a lot about the family life here in Syria and how they interact. It is quite interesting. Like a soap serie. There is always something happening in such a big family. Good things and bad things. But that's life, after all !

Woman between 4 walls

Lately, I've been having a lot of fun.

Am spending as much time as possible with women and children only, because it is the most fun for me and it really helps me learning the arabic language.

Actually, it is normal here for a woman to stay at home. A lot really stay between 4 walls and do not venture into the streets without their husband.

Sarwat is a new friend of mine. She is living like that and makes her family and others visit her a lot. I am now also a regular visitor.

She is 5 months pregnant of the first baby and she and her husband do not have a lot of means. Life is really simple. At the same time they are extremely generous.

I came in touch with her through her brother, Abdellah, who is working part time in the hotel and who is, of course, family of the hotel's owner. It is a big family !

It was with her Auntie, sisters and brothers that I spent the night in the village, Kafarrame, a few weeks ago.

Last week she invited me also to spend the night. Her husband did not mind at all. In the evening, she (with help) took the big matrass of the bed and put it on the terrace. We both slept outside which is what I'm doing almost every night and her husband, Khaled, fell asleep before the television in the living room.

Before going to bed, we also did the laundry (mainly mine). When we woke up in the morning at 7, the laundry was dry and after some ironing and talking to one another in Arabic/English telegram style, I left for the hotel which is only a few minutes away.

2 houses further is living a family with 8 daughters, no sons. Most of them are married, but 3 girls are running in and out at Sarwat's place. They are adorable and eager to learn English and French. Zahra is 14, Diana is 12 and Oemraan is 8.

Their father is a "patissier". Therefore, a lot of sweets. I'm getting fat... So, really integrating well, because arabic women need to be fat, I've been told.

The girls' parents are the nicest of people. Have been visiting them also and every time I pass the house, the mother is asking me in. They were very enthousiastic when I asked whether it was OK for me to spend time with their children, so we can teach each other English/French/Arabic.

Every time I leave, the question is : When are you coming back ? I have 3 more weeks.